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How To Plan Your First Trip To Seoul
I’ve just returned from my seventh trip to Seoul and I’m finally ready to write about it. What took so long? Well it’s a seriously large and sprawling city that takes time to get to know. I’m still not an expert, but I think I’ve had enough time in this metropolis to help guide your first trip.
When I made my first trip to Seoul in 2014 it was not a tourist hotspot. In fact people always seemed confused about where it was and why I was going. But since then K-Pop, K-Drama, and Korean food have become seriously trendy. So after many trips–with both family and colleagues–I’m ready to help you plan a great trip to Seoul.
Getting To Seoul
You’ll arrive at Incheon International Airport and hopefully, like me, you’ll love this place. If only airports in the U.S. were like this. It’s clean, efficient, and dare I say, fun. Yes, I really enjoy shopping, dining, and exploring this airport. You won’t do that upon arrival, but allow enough time when you depart to enjoy this airport.
There are many U.S. and Asian carriers to choose from, but if you can swing it, fly with Korean Air. The only problem is, you’ll be spoiled. For our most recent flight we had to go with Asiana, and it was better than most U.S. based carriers, but not by much. Fortunately, coming from the West Coast, there are plenty of direct flights to Seoul.
Incheon Airport is 60 kilometers outside the city of Seoul, so you’ll have to decide how to get into the city. I’ve tried them all, and each has its benefits.
First, there is the Airport Limousine Bus. This is a large and very comfortable bus that departs Incheon and arrives at popular spots in Seoul. I used this the first time I was in Seoul, and found it very easy to navigate for someone who was seriously jetlagged and speaks no Korean. Tickets can be purchased upon arrival. The downside of this option? You’ll likely need another form of transportation to your final stop.
Airport Railroad Express or AREX is another option. This train will take you to Seoul Station and from there you can transfer to another line or take a taxi to your final destination. There are many stops along this train, but as you’ll soon learn, trains are very efficient in Korea. Again, tickets can be purchased upon arrival.
Taxis are fairly affordable in Korea compared to other places in the world. So if you just want to be dropped off at your door, this works. My only caution is to have your address available in English and Korean. While many Koreans speak English, most taxi drivers do not.
For our recent trip I pre-booked our airport transfers through Get Your Guide. We were a party of five with lots of luggage. It was a tremendous relief at 5:30 a.m. to see our driver waiting for us and prepared to usher us straight to a large, luxury van that would take us directly to our AirBnB.
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Getting Around Seoul
When it comes to getting around Seoul, you’re going to use public transportation. It is cheap, reliable, and extensive. So come prepared to use it. While there are buses, we only used the subway. There are sixteen lines, so it does take a bit of patience to figure out this system, but once you do, you’ll enjoy the clean, well lit stations and the always polite riders. It’s important to note that every subway car has reserved spaces for the disabled, elderly, and pregnant women. If a seat is open in a crowded car, it’s probably because it’s reserved for someone that really needs it.
If you’ll be using the subway more than once, purchase a T-money card at a local convenience shop. There’s a small fee for the card and then you add any amount you’d like. Now you’re ready to simply tap your card to enter and exit each station. The convenience stores require you to pay with cash when adding funds to your card.
Google maps is not reliable in Korea, so instead download the Naver Map app. Again, it will take a bit of practice to learn to use this app, but it’s worth it.
If you’re a regular user of subways in other cities, you know that it often involves lots of walking and stairs. So when we were tired–often at the end of the day–we’d switch to using Uber Taxis. Yes, you read that right. In this city there’s a blending of Uber and Taxi. And while you can use the Uber app, the preferred option is Kakao T.
Central Seoul is relatively flat and very walkable, but surrounding neighborhoods are quite hilly. Come prepared with good walking shoes. We averaged five miles of walking a day.
Currency and Affordability
Korean currency is called the won. And at the time of writing this, one U.S. dollar is worth 1,459 won. This is a really great rate for Americans. So if you’ve ever wanted to visit South Korea, now is the time.
The cost of living compared to most American cities is lower in Seoul. So it’s a good deal for U.S. travelers. Now there are certainly shops and restaurants charging U.S. prices, but if you avoid those, you’ll come out ahead.
U.S. credit cards are almost always accepted in Seoul, but it never hurts to have some cash. We visited several markets and these vendors appreciate payment in cash.
Communicating
After seven trips to Seoul and over thirty years of marriage to a Korean American, I am embarrassed to say that my Korean language skills are non-existent. They are limited to hello, thank you, mother, father, and a bunch of food items. If you watch K-dramas, you might know as many words as I do. Why do I share this? Because I’ve navigated this city by myself many times and when in need, I can always find someone who speaks flawless English. My husband’s advice during my first trip proved perfect: if you need help, look for someone under thirty, they’ll speak English because they will have studied it in school. Add in a few hand gestures and you’ll be just fine.
Now having said that, it doesn’t hurt to arrive with a few key words. There are dozens of videos on YouTube that will teach you a few basic words and phrases.
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Safety
During one of my early trips to Seoul I was told that if a crime is committed, the criminal will be caught within an hour. Why? Because of the extensive CCTV system in the city. I’ve never actually verified this claim, but after seven trips to this city I’ve never had reason to be afraid. Not even pickpocketing. It’s just not done here. I’ve walked down dark alleyways by myself and known that I would be fine. This is a ridiculously safe city. It’s nice to be somewhere as a female and not have to be constantly on guard. Korea has its problems, but personal safety isn’t one of them.
Where To Stay In Seoul
For a first time visitor, I highly recommend staying in Central Seoul, also known as Jongro, City Hall, and the Gwanghwamun area. Here you’ll find a high concentration of historic sights within walking distance–or a very short subway ride–along with loads of good restaurants. Personally I like to stay as close to Insadong as possible. My favorite hotel in the area is Somerset Palace. The prices are fair, the location ideal, and the rooms large and comfortable.
For our recent trip we rented an AirBnB in Hannam and loved it. I’ve read that this trendy neighborhood is popular with K-Pop stars. We didn’t see any during our one week stay, but we loved all the narrow, winding streets lined with boutique shops, cafes, and bars.
Please arrive in Korea with the address for your hotel or AirBnB in English and Korean, and specifically written in Hangul, the Korean alphabet. Your hotel or host will be happy to help with this.
What And Where To Eat
I should probably write a whole separate post just about eating in Seoul. And maybe I will, but for now, I’ll try to summarize the things you can’t miss.
And let me say a word about spice. Koreans love their spicy food. If you are a spice wimp, you’ll want to inquire before each order about the spice level. Sometimes it can be adjusted, other times you’ll need to order something else. There are always great alternatives, but nothing is more miserable than trying to eat something way beyond your spice tolerance.
Kimchi
Yes, kimchi is the national food of Korea. I’m not joking, Koreans take their kimchi very seriously. What is it? It’s a spicy fermented vegetable dish, most commonly made with cabbage. But you’ll find cucumber kimchi, radish kimchi, green onion kimchi, and more. Try them all. My personal favorite is cucumber which tends to be a bit milder than the others. It will be served in a small dish with every meal, and good Koreans never skimp on eating it. It’s typically consumed in a small bite along with rice and protein like meat and fish. If you enjoy it and you run out, don’t hesitate to ask for more, it’s always included in the price of your meal.
Korean BBQ
I know, I should probably just call it BBQ while in Korea, but after 34 years of eating Korean BBQ, the name sticks. If you thought you had good meat at home, think again. Koreans take their BBQ very seriously.
First, if you’ve never had Korean BBQ (maybe you don’t have television, social media or live under a rock) let me explain. Korean BBQ is best known for their thinly sliced and grilled beef ribs called galbi or thinly sliced and marinated beef called bulgogi. But this is just the beginning. BBQ can be spicy pork, pork belly, and a variety of beef cuts. If you love meat, this is your mecca.
There are so many BBQ places in the city there’s no point in chasing down a specific restaurant. Instead, ask your hotel or AirBnB host for a recommendation in your neighborhood.
However, if you’re looking for the best quality beef in Seoul consider a trip to the Majang Meat Market. Here you’ll find a variety of butchers selling Hanwoo beef, similar to Japanese Wagyu, but only sold in Korea. You’ll start by selecting your raw beef and then proceed to a nearby restaurant for grilling it.
This isn’t for the faint of heart, vegetarians, or vegans. The butchers sell everything from intestines to head, and it’s all on display. But the men in your traveling party will thank you.
Cafes
Korea has had a thriving cafe culture for a long time, but with the rise of social media, that culture has reached a new level. There are now hundreds of cafes competing for your attention throughout the city. The themes, specialty drinks and pastries are like nothing I’ve seen in the U.S.
So while you’re here feel free to explore the many vibrant cafes you’ll find in any neighborhood. I’m told that these cafes come and go quickly, so do your research shortly before you arrive and you’ll find something fabulous. But my point is give them a try. While I enjoyed Korean food for most lunches and dinner, all of our breakfasts were spent sampling new coffee drinks and pastries at a wide variety of cafes. And don’t worry if you’re not a coffee drinker, they have plenty of other beverage options.
Most cafes in Seoul do not open early, in fact most open between 9 and 10 a.m., some even later. So if you are an early riser like me, and you get hungry before 9 a.m. you’ll need to search out a Starbucks, Paris Baguette Bakery, or Dunkin’ Donuts. I know, these are sorry alternatives to the great independent cafes in the city, but sometimes a girl just needs her coffee.
Markets
Seoul has a number of large, bustling, mostly outdoor markets that sell a variety of clothes, electronics, home goods, souvenirs, and food. You’ll be missing out if you don’t explore one of these. They can be large, overwhelming and chaotic, but they’re an important part of the city.
My long time favorite market is Namdaemun. I visited here on my first trip to Korea and nearly froze to death while also getting seriously lost. I should have hated the experience, but somehow I knew this was what Seoul was all about. So I’ve returned during each trip and become more and more comfortable with this vast market. Namdaemun has some great street food and is also a great place to pick up souvenirs. A few tips; you’ll likely enter and exit this market in different places. That’s okay. There are plenty of places to catch the subway or a taxi. And if you need help look for the lovely men and women in red coats and hats. They speak English, know the market well, and have maps to guide you.
More recently I’ve discovered Gwangjang Market. Heard of it? Probably because you saw the series Street Food on Netflix. This was originally a market specializing in textiles, but today it’s become one of Seoul’s most popular food markets selling knife cut noodles and mung bean pancakes. We visited this market on our own and again on a food tour. I highly recommend it!
Myeongdong Night Market gets a lot of buzz on social media so we decided to try it out during our recent visit. It’s a fun scene with loads of food vendors lining the streets running through a large shopping district. We sampled a few items, were unimpressed, and instead popped into a restaurant called Myeongdong Kyoja for knife cut noodles and dumplings (highly recommend this place!). What I definitely recommend trying while visiting Myeongdong Night Market is tanghulu, a skewer of fruit covered in crispy sugar. Jessica and I liked it so much we went back for seconds.
Food Safety
After seven trips to Seoul with many different family members and colleagues, no one ever got sick from the food or water. If it looks tasty, eat it. All the food in the markets, water from the tap, any street vendor, all restaurants, and anything from a convenience store is safe to eat. Now I’m sure it’s possible to get food poisoning in Korea, just like it is anywhere in the world, but personally, I’ve never experienced any problems with the food here. Don’t be shy, try everything and anything you want to eat. Korean food is seriously good and I don’t want you to miss out.
Shopping
So my first six trips to Seoul didn’t involve much shopping–other than for a few souvenirs. But then I took my adult daughter, Jessica, to this city and discovered a shopping nirvana.
First, if you like Korean skincare products, Seoul is your Motherland. Jessica took me to a neighborhood called Seongsu and a five story Olive Young (probably Korea’s best known skincare and makeup company). Over the course of an hour I discovered a dizzying array of facemasks, eyeshadow and lip gloss. But there’s also great fashion, accessories, eyewear, and much more throughout the city. Another popular shopping spot (that you’ve likely seen on social media) is Starfield Coex Mall. Even if you’re not a shopper this mall is worth a visit just to see the Starfield Library.
With the current exchange rate, there are some seriously good deals to be had. If shopping is something you enjoy, bring an extra suitcase.
There are also opportunities to purchase handmade goods. My favorite neighborhood for artisan goods is Insadong, a neighborhood originating in the Joseon Dynasty. Here you’ll find celadon pottery, painted scrolls, antiques, inlaid decorative items, and much more.
Sightseeing
My son just wanted to eat while in Seoul and my daughter had a long shopping list. But in between eating and shopping, we squeezed in some sightseeing. This is a country with a rich history–both ancient and modern–and it’s worth exploring the museums and sights to learn more about Korea.
Palaces
The city of Seoul is rich with the history of the Joseon Dynasty–Korea’s last and longest dynasty. It’s a fascinating history and easy to explore, especially in the heart of the city, or Central Seoul. One of the most popular ways to learn about the Joseon Dynasty is by visiting one of the five palaces that were once occupied by the royal family.
So let me start by saying that my kids were not blown away by the Joseon palaces. Most buildings are not original, but were rebuilt after destruction during the Japanese occupation. And in most cases you cannot enter the palace buildings, so I understand why my kids weren’t overly impressed. I, however, find the palaces fascinating, so I encourage you to visit at least one while you’re here. If you enjoy them as much as I did, then you can always see more. And if you’ve watched any of the K-Drama’s based in this time period, you’ll also appreciate these buildings.
The most popular palace to visit is Gyeongbokgung, located in the historic center of the city. This was the primary palace of the Joseon dynasty emperors. I highly recommend taking one of the guided tours to learn what palace life was like. And it’s always fun to watch the reenactment of the changing of the guard that takes place twice a day.
Museums
Museums are not what Seoul is known for, but that’s unfortunate. There are some seriously good museums here. And often, they are free. I’ll share three of my favorites.
The War Memorial of Korea was much loved by everyone in our group. I’ve now been three times and still haven’t covered the whole place. Outside is a large exhibit of historic planes, vehicles, and a ship that have been used in battles throughout Korea. But the best stuff is inside. There’s an extensive exhibit on the Korean War that I highly encourage everyone to see.
The National Museum of Korean Contemporary History is also very good. It traces the last 100 years of Korea’s history. This period includes the second Japanese occupation, the Korean War and subsequent recovery. If you have older Korean friends or relatives in your life, this museum will help you better understand their lives.
One of the smaller and lesser known museums is the War and Women’s Rights Museum, or as some people call it, the Comfort Women Museum. During World War II the Japanese captured thousands of Korean women and girls and forced them into sexual slavery. Many of those women are still alive and for decades their stories were suppressed. But this museum documents those stories so they’ll never be forgotten. This is not an easy place to visit, so I wouldn’t take young children, but I am glad I went.
Seoul Tower/Namsan Park
Let me start by saying the Seoul Tower and Namsan Park are seriously touristy. But I’ve been three times and always enjoyed it. There are a couple of different parts to this attraction, so it’s good to know that in advance.
Namsan Park is a lovely public space perched high on a hill with excellent views of Seoul–if the weather cooperates. There are shops, restaurants, and sometimes live music. It’s become popular to purchase a lock, write your lover’s name on it, and then attach it to one of the many fences. While Jessica purchased her lock, I grabbed an iced coffee and enjoyed both the view and people watching.
You have two options to get here; walk or ride the cable car. Since the walk is quite steep I’ve always opted for the cable car. However, the wait times for the cable car can be very long, so to skip the line, you may want to arrive early in the day. During our recent visit, we rode the cable car up and walked down.
While Seoul Tower is located in Namsan Park, it is a separate attraction with its own ticket. I’m sure the views are lovely, but I’ve never gone up in the tower. Personally I think Namsan Park is sufficient.
Bukchon Hanok Village
Traditional homes in Korea were called hanoks. They are single story, wooden structures and often feature a courtyard. Very few of these remain today, but some have been preserved and restored in the Buckchon Hanok Village. Some of these homes are now open to the public while most remain in private hands. Nearby are some charming streets with boutiques shops, cafes, and restaurants.
A Food Tour
If you know me, you know I love food tours (take a look at my previous posts about food tours in Naples, Rome, and New York City). And while this could have been added to the What To Eat Section of this blog post, the reality is food tours are as much about history and culture as they are about food. We opted for Gwangjang Market Netflix Tour and booked through Get Your Guide. This tour starts in Insadong, continues through Iksundong, and ends at Gwangjang Market. It did not disappoint. The food portions were generous, the guide lovely, and overall experience perfect.
Random Tips
Tipping
Tipping isn’t done in Korea, so don’t do it. And I must admit it’s nice to not add a tip onto everything. In my opinion, tipping has gotten out of control in the U.S. As a result of no tipping, Koreans don’t expect super friendly or overly attentive service. You order, you get your food, you pay and leave. It’s very transactional. It takes a day or so to get used to it, but when you do, you’ll appreciate the efficiency of this no tip culture.
Protests
During many of my trips to Seoul there have been political protests. During the last trip there were protests against the impending impeachment of the president. But never let this deter you from visiting. Every protest I’ve seen in the city is peaceful, well-organized, and highly policed. Again, you are really safe here. The only downside is for really big protests major streets will be closed and will cause traffic problems. If this is happening while you’re visiting, just use the subway.
Convenience Stores
Convenience Stores in Korea and Japan are significantly better than in the U.S. Find the one nearest your accommodations and spend some time there. In addition to a great assortment of snack food (which make for great gifts and souvenirs) they also have prepared foods that are usually pretty good. We aren’t talking crappy hotdogs and pizza, but local specialties like joomuk bap (rice triangles stuffed with meat or fish) and gimbap (similar to sushi). There will be a ridiculous selection of ramen and a hot water tap to fill your cup after purchase. Looking for some beer and wine for your AirBnB, pop into a convenience store. Need to refill your subway T-Money card? They got you covered. Forgot a toothbrush, you’ll find it here. It is amazing how much they can stock in these relatively small spaces.
Drinking In Seoul
While wine and cocktails can be found in Seoul–and are rising in popularity–beer and soju still dominate the drinking scene. Soju is a distilled spirit typically made from some type of grain. It’s rather sweet and strong, so you’ll drink it from small cups like a shot glass. So if you want to enjoy a traditional Korean meal in the old school manner, order yourself a Cass and a bottle of soju.
It’s Really Time To Visit Seoul!
You’ve seen Seoul in K-Dramas, listened to K-Pop, and likely tried Korean food at least once. So now it’s time to plan that trip. You’re going to eat a ridiculous amount of good food, learn all about the Joseon dynasty and feel like everything at the store is on sale (thank you exchange rates). And you won’t have to worry about your safety or well being even once.
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